Montenegro: Jewel of the Adriatic
An encounter with Montenegro would do well to start with Boka Bay. This spectacular narrow inlet flows into what is known as Europe’s most southerly fjord, although technically, it is a submerged river canyon. Scattered with Venetian seamen’s palaces, the bay reaches depths of 60 metres, making it the perfect place for superyachts and luxury cruise ships.
When it comes to superyachts, the exclusive Porto Montenegro is first port of call. Once home to the Austro-Hungarian navy, it is the deepest natural harbour in Southern Europe and home to a spectacular marina development. The marina-side shopping village has an array of designer shops and an eclectic choice of waterfront bars and restaurants, centred around the five-star Regent Montenegro. Not brought the yacht? You can easily charter one to suit your needs.
Check out the popular brasserie ‘One’ in Porto Montenegro. The black risotto (Crnini Rizotto) made with the ink of cuttlefish is sublime and pairs perfectly with a local Chardonnay.
From Porto Montenegro, jump on a yacht or take the short drive to Kotor. Kotor Old Town, or Stari Grad, is perched on the edge of Boka Bay, set against the dramatic limestone backdrop of the Orjen and Lorvcen mountains. Beyond the 14th century city walls of this UNESCO World Heritage site you can lose yourself in a labyrinth of Venetian-inspired architecture, frankincense-infused churches, café filled squares, museums and a host of curio shops. To capture panoramic views of the sweeping bay, take the 1,200-metre trail that snakes up the mountain behind the old city. In the evening, the Galion Restaurant, just outside the old town, is a cool venue to relax and view the glittering fortress walls. Be sure to book in advance to savour local seafood and crisp Montenegrin wines.
Coastal exploration in Montenegro
Further along Boka Bay, visit the picturesque towns of Perast, Risan and Herceg Novi. Follow the meandering coast road about six kilometres out of Kotor and look out for Ljuta. Ljuta means ‘angry’, an odd paradox given its spectacularly uplifting vista. Just before Ljuta lies gastronomic happiness in the shape of the Cogimar store. This could easily be missed, but venture inside and you will find yourself transported into a mini Harrods Food Hall. Feast your eyes on a showcase of fresh seafood, Italian pastas, cheeses, sausages and truffle oils. The mezzanine floor, an ornate minstrel’s gallery, is a paradise of curated world grapes. Be sure to test out flavours from the Balkans – Chardonnays from Serbia’s Kovačević winery and Montenegro’s Arhonto winery are great to compare.
All that gastronomic delight will probably summon up an appetite so head a few kilometres to Bajova Kula, a chilled-out beach club, where you can lunch on fresh mussels grown just metres from the water’s edge. Alternatively, carry on to the timeless elegance of Perast, a tiny one-road village lined with terraced cafes and restaurants. Although it looks like a simple fishing village, its grand past belies any first impressions. Between 1420 and 1797, it belonged to Venice and was home to captains of the Venetian navy, shipbuilders and elite families. Wander along the road and count (if it takes your fancy) 16 Baroque palazzos, 17 Catholic churches and two Orthodox churches. Perast is also famed for its delightful shoreline restaurants. The refined Conte Restaurant is renowned for its white fish baked in salt and unrivalled views of the two picturesque islets just off the coast.
The natural island of Sveti Dorde, has tall evergreens surrounding a Benedictine monastery, while the second, Gospa od Škrpjela, or Our Lady of the Rocks, is man-made with an 18th century church housing an icon of the Virgin Mary. Legend has it that in 1452 the icon was found on a reef and the site was marked by creating an island of rocks. Every July, Perast celebrates this through the festival of ‘Fascinada’ where fishing boats accompanied by acapella singers go out to the island to throw rocks.
Another gem along the Montenegrin coastline is the Blue Cave (‘Plava Spilja’) on the Lustica Peninsula not far from the anticipated Chedi hotel at Lustica Bay. A quick sail or boat ride along the peninsula will transport you to the iridescent waters of this blue grotto. Be sure to take a mask and snorkel – the waters are crystal clear. If you are sailing, take time to anchor at Rose, a charming fishing hamlet at the mouth of Boka Bay. Call ahead to Resort Forte Rose who will ferry you from your yacht to dine at its restaurant, set in what was once an Austro-Hungarian fort.
Buzzing Budva
For who want a bustling nightlife Budva, the metropolis of Montenegro’s tourist industry, is just the ticket. With 17 beaches, a buzzing party vibe and an atmospheric medieval old town, it is a popular destination. For most, however, the highlight of the Budva Riviera is Sveti Stefan. Once the playground of Marilyn Monroe, Sophia Loren and Elizabeth Taylor, this 15th century fishing village is now home to the uber-luxurious Aman Resorts Sveti Stefan. To enjoy picture perfect views from the main land visit Olive Restaurant, shaded by centuries old olive trees, or soak up stunning sunset views from the vantage point of world-famous Japanese restaurant, Nobu.
If you can tear yourself away from the astounding coastline, you should make inroads into the imposing mountains to explore historic sites or indulge in a touch of adrenaline-driven fun. Cetinje, the old royal capital of Montenegro is packed with museums, old embassies, churches and royal palaces and offers an interesting insight into Balkan history. Meanwhile, about 50 km from Montenegro’s modern-day capital Podgorica, is the formidable Ostrogog Monastery. Resting precariously 900 metres up on an almost vertical rock face over the stunning Zeta Valley, it has attracted visitors and pilgrims for centuries.
Yet another breathtaking destination is undoubtedly Durmitor National Park with its stunning pine forests, crystal glacial lakes, cascading waterfalls, deep gorges, and endless trails. The spectacular Tara River Canyon is the second deepest canyon in the world after Arizona’s Grand Canyon and a day whitewater rafting on River Tara will leave you breathless. In winter, the park is great for skiing, while the rest of the year is perfect for rafting, fishing, hiking and climbing.
Finally, the very essence of Montenegro can be found at the vast Skada Lake on the border of Albania and Montenegro. This is the largest lake in Southern Europe and has an array of wildlife including 250 known bird species and 30 different types of fish. If you are making this worthwhile trip find time to visit Plantaže, one of the largest vineyards in Europe, which is located just 20 minutes from the national park.
Whether it’s sunbathing, sailing, swimming, skiing, cycling, trekking, fishing, climbing, kayaking, (the list is endless), or just enjoying the spectacular scenery, Montenegro is the Adriatic’s hottest go-to destination. A true encounter of awesome land and sea, it’s probably one of the most intriguing destinations you can jet into this year.
